Housing
Housing can be a tricky topic. I’ve seen many housing units wrongly purchased or set up. Their cages should be at least 2′ x 2′, but 2′ x 4′ or larger is preferred.
I personally prefer large, clear Sterilite Totes (roughly 106 qt, but bigger the better) because they’re warmer and easy to clean, plus you can get creative with designing them. Many breeders use these, but some do frown upon them.
I’ve seen people create C&C cages which can definitely be a fun option.
Some people will use Guinea Pig cages. These can be great for space, but be careful because hedgehogs sometimes like to try to climb on the bars, which can obviously hurt them. These cages also can be a little bit chillier for the hedgie depending on what kind of a heating source you use.
DO NOT use rabbit cages with WIRE BOTTOMS. This is extremely difficult on hedgies feet and can be drafty for the hedgies.
Be extremely cautious with cages that have different levels. Hedgies can fall off areas that don’t have sides. This is especially dangerous when they’re running around and exploring/playing.
DO NOT use BIRD CAGES. This is a terrible idea. It’s simply not set up for the use of keeping a hedgehog safe.
Some reptile enclosures can work for hedgie housing depending on sizing.
Aquariums can be used for a caging idea, BUT they can also hold in more moisture, be heavier to clean, and be more inconvenient all in all. Monitor the hedgehog’s environment closely if you use this.
Wooden enclosures can be risky choices due to liquids being easily absorbed if the wood isn’t properly sealed. Also, it can emit toxic gases and hold in humidity. If you choose to do a DIY wooden enclosure definitely study up on how to make it safe, not just cute.
Temperature
Hedgehogs are definitely temp sensitive creatures. If they get too warm they can have problems, if they get too cold then they can hibernate and possibly die.
Keeping hedgehogs around 75 to 80 degrees is definitely the best temps. You can use a space heater, heating mat, CHE (Ceramic Heat Emitter) or other pet friendly heating sources. ALWAYS USE A THERMOMETER of sorts to monitor the temp of the cage space.
Substrate/Bedding
Substrate and bedding can be a touchy topic and definitely ends up being up to the owner. There are several options, each with a positive and negative side.
Fleece – This is my personal fave. It usually needs to be taken out and washed/changed every few days. For really clean hedgies you can sometimes make it a week/week and half in between changings. For cleaning I usually use an odorless, hypoallergenic laundry detergent and a little bleach. This both cleans and sterilizes the fleece for the next changing. The downfall is that fleece tends to get dirty fast, has to be washed, and can hold odors quicker when not changed. When choosing fleece, choose one that’s ‘pill proof’ or ‘pill free’ to keep it from getting in the hedgie’s quills and possibly causing infections.
Diatomacious Earth (DE) – Not really recommended due to the dust particles from it causing issues with a hedgie’s breathing. It basically carries microscopic sharp particles that can cut into an animal’s airway. The reason why people do risk using this is because it is believed to help keep the risk of parasites down. Whether or not this is a true fact, this is still a risky bedding option.
Recycled Paper Bedding (aka CareFresh) – This option is often used due to the ease of it. I personally have seen hedgies getting parasites such as mites a lot quicker on beddings like this. They also are more expensive. If you choose this option please don’t use the colored/dyed versions because it can contain chemicals that can cause skin reactions to your hedgies. You can make this bedding safer to use if you either heat it to around 200 degrees for 20 minutes or freeze it below 20 degrees for 14 days to kill of any possible parasites days before using it.
Pellets (Pine and Paper) – Although used often due to it’s inexpensive nature, this bedding isn’t very recommended due to it having a higher bacterial and fungal growth rate. It’s also not super amazing for the hedgie’s small feet.
Shavings – If using shavings, use either ASPEN or KILN DRIED PINE (NOT REGULAR PINE). Other shaving types can carry toxins or emit toxins when used. Shavings are a popular, inexpensive choice for bedding. Although easy to acquire it does have its issues. Shavings tend to be more dusty for animals when breathing it in. Also there’s a higher risk for internal parasites that like to hide in the shavings. You can avoid this risk by heating the shavings to 200 degrees for 20 minutes or freezing it to below 20 degrees for 14 days. This eliminates or lessens the chance for the bedding to carry parasites.
Bio Active Enclosures – This idea is starting to gain popularity. I’ve often thought about trying it. The problem with going this route is that there is often a large chance that the setup will harbor bacteria, mold, and fungal issues. It does take quite some time to set up and a lot of dedication to get it to where it needs to be. On top of that it can be expensive to get started and bring to the level that is naturally intended. I would not recommend this choice without conducting extensive research and reach out to someone who has successful created a bio active enclosure with success. Basically find a mentor if going this route.
Excercise
Hedgehogs NEED excercise. At the very least they need a 12-inch bottomed wheel. Kaytee Comfort Wheels is what I personally use. Carolina Storm Wheels are also a very good choice. I wouldn’t veer away from those two styles to quickly.
DO NOT USE THE SILENT SPINNER!!!! Some people have success with this, but the way it’s made more times than not cut up a hedgie’s feet and are a hazard to their well being.
Hedgehogs are known to run 2 miles or more a night (although I have heard of them traveling up to 10 or miles as well), so a wheel is a NECESSITY and is NOT OPTIONAL.
Clean and disinfect the wheel as needed. Hedgies often poop on the wheels and can make them pretty dirty so be prepared to clean them often. Or have a back-up wheel on hand for swapping out in between cleanings.
A good way to clean a wheel is to:
– Wash and scrub with warm water and dish soap.
– Rinse and repeat as necessary
– Wipe and spray down wheel with 1:9 bleach/water mix
– Allow wheel to air dry or rinse extremely well.
– Put back in cage 🙂
Two or More Hedgies? Companionship?
Hedgehogs are solitary animals by nature. They prefer the companionship of themselves and often times do NOT like having other hedgies around for companionship. In nature, hedgies only get together to mate, raising babies, or fighting to keep/achieve territory. Some hedgies might get along fine, but keeping two together is NOT RECOMMENDED.
If for whatever reason you do keep two FEMALES together than make sure there are two wheels so they don’t fight to use them. Also keep a close eye on them to make sure they’re not hurting each other. Also keep them in a cage probably at least double the size of what you’d keep one in.
NEVER HOUSE MALES TOGETHER! They can fight, pull off the other’s genitals, hurt, or kill each other.
Toys
Use toys that are big enough to not be swallowed and are easy to clean (rubber, plastic, vinyl, etc). Cat toys are often a favorite to use.
Hedgies like being entertained and having creative things to do (much like dogs, cats, and honestly us humans). It can provide good exercise and good mental stimulation.
If a toy is animal or kid safe, chances are it will be safe for you hedgie. Toys can be changes out, but try not to do major changes to their cages to help avoid stressing them out. A stressed hedgehog can quickly become a sick hedgehog.
Hideouts/Shelters
Hedgehogs like to have something to feel safe in. There are many things that can used for this. You can use a pile of fleece for them to dig and hide in. You can use actual hideout options from pet stores or through animal vendors. Snuggle sacks are awesome for them to crawl in and hide to get away from life and stay warm. There’s also DIY ideas like using plastic flower pots and cutting holes in them or plastic salad bowls flipped over with an opening cut into them. Be creative, have fun with it. Just make sure it’s something you can wash and disinfect.
Itchy Hands?
I believe I had a blog post about this, but in the case that I don’t… Have you ever had itchy hands after handling a hedgehog? Or after washing your hands from handling your hedgie?
It seems like this depends on the person, the hedgehog, and what the hedgehog is eating or how clean they are. When you pick up a hedgehog they’re bodies are armored in all of those quills. When those quills poke into you your skin sometimes reacts whether it be to the quills being dirty or because of whatever the hedgie is eating is reacting through the contact with your skin. Weird I know. Some people break out in almost hives from it, others have just a tiny itch for a little while, and some just don’t react at all. I’d say it’s probably nothing to worry about it. The itching goes away after a little while. If you know that you have an allergy to something that the hedgie is potentially eating then I’d be a little bit more concerned and would maybe consider consulting a medical professional in the case that you could be having a food allergy reaction.
No pet is perfect. Every single one has their issue. This just happens to be one of the hedgie’s minor ones. I, personally, find it worth it to have one of these lil cuties.
My Hedgie’s foaming at the mouth and twitching!?!
Ha, yeah, about that. Don’t worry! This is more common in babies and young adults, but all hedgehogs do it. When they smell or taste something new they basically spit on themselves. They foam at the mouth as they try licking the scent on them (or off of them I suppose). It looks like they’re seizing while dealing with rabies all at the same time! It’s kind of freaky. And kind of entertaining. Your hedgie is fine. (S)he is just doing what they’re supposed to and what’s natural. Sit back and enjoy the show LOL!